I Resolve to Seek Inspiration

January 2nd, 2010

Literally and figuratively in the eleventh hour (p.m.) of January 1, 2010 I was looking for inspiration. Cooking inspiration, that is. Although I love perusing through cookbooks, even reading them cover to cover sometimes, I rarely use them when I cook. That is, I almost never have a cookbook cracked open on the counter for me to refer to pre-chopping or mid-saute. But when I find myself short on ideas, unable to unearth all the dishes, dinners, meals, and masterpieces in my mind, I turn to my cookbook collection to get the ball rolling.

Seldom bought, mostly given by a publicist, publisher, or t.v. producer, the cookbooks in my collection are a bibliographic timeline of my culinary career. Tonight I flipped through some old favorites: Michel Nischan’s “Taste Pure and Simple,” which he gave to me the first time I ever worked with him a few weeks before the book hit stores; Tyler Florence’s “Tyler’s Ultimate,” which I read cover to cover the night before I worked with him for the first time on The View four years ago; and “Modern Mexican Flavors” by Richard Sandoval, one of the only cookbooks I have bought for myself post-culinary school simply because his food inspires me.

And then I stumbled upon Susan Herrmann Loomis’s “Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin.” The moment I cracked open the book I remembered why I first liked it so very much. It is written the way a cookbook should be – with depth, history, culture, anecdote, and nostalgia. All that, and the recipe writing is meticulous, the techniques tried and true, the French cuisine utterly authentic, AND she offers a wine recommendation with each dish. What a good book! The words and flavors jump off the page and it is as though you are right there with Susan Herrmann Loomis in her Normandy kitchen.

I had the pleasure of meeting the author once several years ago in New York when she was touring for her book. I listened to her talk, watched her cook, and tasted her delectable fare. She inspired me then, and she did again tonight when I landed on page 55 (see excerpt below). May her words inspire us all for a scrumptious 2010!

How to Eat Like the French

I am often asked how the French eat so well, yet look so thin and healthy. Here are some tips I’ve learned:

1. Buy ingredients as close to the source as you can. Go to a farm, a farmer’s market, a shop featuring farm ingredients. Buy organic ingredients whenever you can. They may cost more, but realize that their cost is the real cost of producing food, for most organic farmers don’t get government subsidies.

2. Serve a green salad with lunch and dinner.

3. Serve bread without butter at mealtimes.

4. Drink plenty of water throughout the day.

5. Avoid snacking between meals.

6. Always have seasonal fruit available. I often cut up fruit – apples, pears, melons, peaches – when my children are agitating for a meal and I haven’t quite finished preparation.

7. Serve vegetable soup often; it is a delicious and satisfying way to enjoy vegetables.

8. Have a glass of wine with your meal. Wine, particularly red wine, is believed to have health benefits when taken in moderation.

9. Avoid processed foods and soft drinks.

10. Don’t be afraid of your food. If you are comfortable with your food, you will enjoy it more and eat less.

11. Take time at the table so you can enjoy the meal you’ve prepared.

I Can Pull Pork In My Sleep

November 16th, 2009

Pulled pork might take days to make but all the action takes place while you sleep. This past weekend I was part of a tailgating event for the last home football game of the season at my alma mater, Colgate University. On Saturday, the school featured me cooking tailgate food with a twist, and sold my two books alongside the free tasty fare: cider braised pulled pork sliders with apple slaw, and chicken satay skewers with coconut lemongrass sauce.

The event might have taken place Saturday, but the prep work began Thursday when I coated the pork butt (that’s really pork shoulder) in a spice rub of paprika, brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, chili powder, cayenne and white pepper, salt, and oregano. The heavily seasoned meat was wrapped tightly in plastic, then in aluminum foil. It sat for 24 hours in the refrigerator to cure.

The next day, I removed from the refrigerator the seasoned meat, now glistening a deep, glossy red from the paprika and sugar spice rub, and placed it on a rimmed sheet pan. It then went in a preheated 250F oven overnight. While I slept, the meat cooked, rendering its fat and loosening itself from the bone. When I awoke, the smells of barbecue permeated the house. I had cooked another pulled pork in my sleep! Now all that was left was a quick braise to make the “sauce.”

I love Texas barbecue, but only for brisket and sausage links. When it comes to pulled pork, I want it Carolina style with a vinegar/mustard based sauce. After 8 hours in the oven, the pork was juicy and tender to the bone. I let it cool a bit while I warmed half a gallon of apple cider in a large pot with yellow mustard, honey, molasses, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cider vinegar, and liquid smoke (no other choice for a city girl who wants to impart that smokey flavor to the meat). I effortlessly pulled the pork off the bone and placed it in the warm cider braising liquid. I let the meat and juice mixture simmer for an hour before packing up and taking it upstate to Colgate.

The lesson: it is so easy to make pulled pork you can do it in your sleep!

“The Competent Cook” Launches This Month After a Long Journey

November 8th, 2009

One year. Two books. 87,000 words total. Even I can hardly believe it, but it’s true. It has been a very hectic 2009!

My second book, The Competent Cook: Essential Tools, Techniques, and Recipes for the Modern At-Home Cook, officially launches November 18th. It has been a work in progress over many years, beginning with the eponymous food column I had on cdkitchen.com, which launched in the spring of 2005. When I was approached to write the column and come up with a title, I thought “The Confident Cook” was alliterative and catchy. Thank goodness my father convinced me otherwise, pointing out that confidence without competence is worthless. Very true indeed. So, “The Competent Cook” became my weekly online outlet to help readers become better cooks and learn the standards I valued.

Purchase The Competent Cook

By late summer of 2006, I was seven months pregnant and gearing up to wind down. I worked until five days before my son was born (my last gig was for Tyler Florence on “The View.” Needless to say, I think he was pretty shocked to see me 40 weeks pregnant and waddling around the set with strip steaks and brandied mushrooms!) I was right back to work for Michel Nischan on a TV shoot three weeks later. I just couldn’t keep away from the work I love. In early 2007, when my friend and agent, Molly, encouraged me to consider what kind of cookbook I would want to write (she knew me too well to ask if I wanted to write one!), the theme of the The Competent Cook was the clear winner.

I have been privileged to be a culinary instructor in addition to all the other toques I wear (chef/caterer, food columnist, recipe tester, and food stylist). It has been a sincere pleasure to pass along to students the knowledge and standards that I have learned from others and from my own trials and triumphs in the kitchen. Everything from the equipment I favor to the way I store food impacts my daily cooking life. My favorite evergreen recipes and the techniques that go with them are now finally compiled in a book that has been a work in progress not just since 2005, but my whole life. The book was meant to be born.

Getting a book published can take a long time, and at one point my patience waned. In March of 2008 I was ready to give up and just move on to other things. I was given the opportunity to write Notes on Cooking with Russell Reich, and I jumped at it. As fate would have it, the very same week I had an offer for The Competent Cook to be published. Unwilling to choose between the two projects, I said, “Sure! I can write two books in six months!” And that’s exactly what I did. Notes on Cooking was just released in June, and now a few months later The Competent Cook hits the stands.

Since receiving my advance copy a few weeks ago, it has been gratifying to pick up The Competent Cook and find recipes like my basic pie crust and chicken satay with coconut lemongrass sauce without having to pull the files off the computer or my hand-written notes from a filing box. At last, my favorite go-to recipes are in one convenient collection! I hope you enjoy the book and find it to be the perfect compliment to Notes on Cooking.

An Oldie But Goodie With a Twist

October 5th, 2009

Lately I have been reading blog posts and tweets about Sheila Lukins, the American culinary pioneer and co-author of the Silver Palate cookbooks. She died in late August, and many friends and fans remember her and her scrumptious food fondly. Chicken Marbella was by far her most famous dish: an unexpected concoction of chicken with prunes, olives, and capers so popular that you couldn’t escape it in the 1980’s.

I set out to make Chicken Marbella because it had been quite some time since I had it. Once I began to gather my mise en place, I realized that I didn’t have prunes (only dried apricots), and had mixed olives (not all green). I was out of red wine vinegar, but had sherry vinegar. And I had half a bottle of red wine already open so why bother with a new bottle of white? I was determined to get those flavors brewing in my kitchen and ultimately in my mouth, so I persevered with the same principles and ratios albeit on a slightly different path.

Chicken “Lorena” emerged:

8 chicken thighs, or 1 chicken quartered
4 cloves very finely chopped garlic (like a paste)
2 tablespoons dried oregano
kosher salt and black pepper to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1/2 cup dried apricots
1/2 cup pitted mixed olives
1/4 cup capers with the juice
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup red wine
chopped parsley for garnish, optional

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl combine the garlic, oregano, kosher salt and pepper to taste, vinegar, olive oil, apricots, olives, capers, and juice. Add the chicken and toss well to coat. Cover and let marinate, refrigerated, overnight.

Arrange chicken in a single layer in a large, shallow baking pan and spoon the fruit/olives over it evenly. Sprinkle chicken pieces with brown sugar and pour the wine around them.

Bake uncovered for 50 minutes to 1 hour, basting every 10 minutes with pan juices.

Serve the dish warm or cold. It actually improves after a few days in the fridge.

The Savory Chef and Her Sweet Tooth

September 7th, 2009

I am a savory chef. Of course, I can bake. That’s part of my training. Sure, I have had to make plenty of cakes, cookies, tarts, pies and, yes, cupcakes in my day (I even was asked to make a cupcake tier for a friend’s wedding). But I am no pastry chef. I generally do not work with fondant (save my son’s second birthday party…oh, how he wanted a choo-choo train cake). Pastillage and I are not well acquainted.

Wedding Cupcake Tier - Carrot Cake with Orchids

Wedding Cupcake Tier - Carrot Cake with Orchids

Jonathan's Choo-Choo Train Cake a la Anabel Karmel

Jonathan's Choo-Choo Train Cake a la Anabel Karmel

When it comes to tasting sweets, well, that is another story altogether. So, when I heard that not one but two of my cupcake ideas were selected as semifinalists in Tribeca Treats’s Annual Cupcake Competition, I was thrilled! (Especially since the competition, which benefits A.C.E. Programs for the Homeless, received over 100 entries. Only 12 were chosen to move on to the taste-test round.)

My two ideas: Monkey Madness (banana cupcake with peanut butter frosting topped with chocolate chips) and Creamsicle (orange chiffon cupcake with vanilla buttercream topped with candied orange peel). The fun part: The Creamsicle will be taste-tested on Tuesday, September 8th and the Monkey Madness on Wednesday, September 9th at Tribeca Treats!

Here’s how the tasting works: customers will be invited to taste-test each semifinalist cupcake, in exchange for a $5 donation to Tribeca Partnership and A.C.E Programs for the Homeless. Customers will rate each cupcake on a scale of 1-10; the scores will be averaged. The top four will go head-to-head in a final taste test on Friday, September 11th. The winners will then be announced on Monday, September 14th.

So, head down to Tribeca Treats and vote!

Inside the Mind of a Chef

August 17th, 2009

Getting inside the mind if a chef isn’t as elusive as it might appear. Thanks to master chef Daniel Boulud, now you can walk right in seven days a week at his new restaurant, DBGB Kitchen & Bar, on the Bowery. Just steps away from what once was CBGB’s, this new venture was designed to be a place that a cook would want to frequent with a menu to match. The menu is eclectic and substantial, ranging from the scrumptious and very modernly presented escargots to matzo ball soup. There is a beer sommelier, a house-made sausage menu, and a hamburger whose garnishes include Daisy May’s pulled pork. Need I say more? Well, maybe I should just mention that they have ice cream sundaes with homemade marshmallows, cookie bites, and mini meringues so fantastical in appearance they put Willy Wonka to shame.

I have had the pleasure of eating there twice so far, most recently Saturday night with my good friend, Tim. Chef Daniel was there, and he came by to say hello (he so generously endorsed Notes on Cooking). We were praising the food and service, of course, but I was most excited to share my husband’s observations with him about the space (Sean and I had eaten there together the week before). As good as the food is at DBGB, the design and decor are even more clever.

Interior of DBGB Kitchen & Bar

Interior of DBGB Kitchen & Bar

When you approach the restaurant, you are confronted with a wall of glass windows, covered in quotes from culinary gods like Brillat-Savarin and Julia Child. As you enter the restaurant, the surrounding walls of mirrored glass in the bar area display more quotes and the extensive menu. Once you enter the main dining room, you are in a giant and handsome charcoal grey dining room that is remarkably light and open. The bright white and stainless steel kitchen is visible through glass and forms an “L” along two walls. Wherever else there is wall space in the room pantry items like kosher salt, matzo meal, and wine are displayed on wooden shelves. The finishing touch that makes the whole concept come together is a full border of copper pots and pans from all the great American and French chefs, a veritable culinary heritage museum. Everyone of Chef Daniel’s friends from Alain Ducasse to Tyler Florence has donated a favorite copper piece to be displayed. It is both thrilling and humbling to walk around the the perimeter of the dining room to admire this cookware and ultimately their owners.

There are other amusing details like bathroom wallpaper – pages of a French cookware catalogue from another century that feature such frivolous items as a jambonniere (a ham-shaped pot to cook…what else?…ham). This type of detail might be lost on those who are ignorant of or uninterested in food history; to them it’s likely just an attractive aesthetic choice. But to those in the know, to a cook like me who lives and breathes this stuff, it was so stimulating. My husband and I absorbed all these details when we first waked into DBGB. As is typical, Sean put it best: “This restaurant is like the inside of a chef’s mind.”

So, I quoted this to Chef Daniel, telling him all the reasons that led us to feel that way. No one had put it that way to him before, he noted, and he loved that way of seeing the space. “I’m going to use that!” he said. Well, just when I thought it was not possible for him to flatter me more…then again, all the credit for articulating that observation goes to Sean!

I can’t wait to get back to DBGB Kitchen & Bar. It is a delectable and authentic journey into the mind of a GREAT chef.

My Top Tomato Tips on YouTube

August 3rd, 2009

Click to Watch Chef Lauren Talk about Tomatoes

Nothing tastes quite like summer as do heirloom tomatoes. My last blog post was about tomatoes, but I had to post the following video to make sure everyone knows the best way to procure and store them. Check it out on YouTube by clicking the photo to the left.

Top Five Tomato Tips:

1. Shop seasonally.
2. Shop locally.
3. Wash whole in cold running water.
4. Store in a cool, dry place.
5. Only refrigerate once sliced.

Fun on the Farm

July 19th, 2009

There is a very special place, just 40 miles northwest of New York, called Rainbeau Ridge. A small, family-owned farm, Rainbeau Ridge is the realization of a dream and an admirable example of sustainability and community. They grow fruits and vegetables, sell fresh eggs in spectacular shades of blue and brown, and raise livestock to make arguably some of the best goat cheese there is (Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns certainly agrees). I have been very fortunate to spend countless, joyful hours there over the years and July 16th was no exception.

Lisa Schwartz, owner and farmer extraodinaire, invited me to spend an afternoon at the farm to sign books and meet her Community Agriculture Partnership (CAP) customers. From noon to 4 o’clock I met with people who love the ingredients they use just as much as they love to cook. It was inspiring to see how many people deeply care about the quality of their food, from farm to table. One woman, Shirley, is in a book club where Alice Waters’s “The Art of Simple Food” is on the list. Oh, what a fun idea for a book club! Maybe “Notes on Cooking” will be next? How wonderful that would be…especially if I am invited to join!

To entice people to chat with me and browse through the book, I bribed them with a little treat: a tomato tart made with Lisa’s Mont Vivant goat cheese. Everyone was raving about it, no doubt due to that delectable chevre! Flaky puff pastry, scrumptious tomato jam, heirloom tomatoes paired with basil from the garden, and a little extra virgin olive oil and coarse salt were a savory backdrop for Lisa’s cheese (she impressively makes it all herself). Try the following recipe for just a little taste of Rainbeau Ridge. Better yet, go visit the farm or a local store or restaurant where Rainbeau Ridge cheese is sold.

Heirloom Tomato & Goat Cheese Tart

for the tomato jam:
2 pints grape or cherry tomatoes
6 whole shallots, peeled
4 cloves garlic, peeled
4 sprigs thyme
olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

for the tart:
1 sheet puff pastry
1 cup tomato jam
6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
1 pint small heirloom tomatoes, halved or quartered
frehsly ground black pepper
extra virgin olive oil
coarse sea salt
fresh basil leaves

Preheat the oven to 400F.

To make the tomato jam, combine the tomatoes, shallots, garlic, and thyme in a rimmed sheet pan. Drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 20-30 minutes, or until the shallots have caramelized and softened. Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the tomato mixture to a food processor. Puree for several seconds until more or less smooth. Allow to cool before assembling the tart.

To make the tart, line a sheet pan with a nonstick liner. Place the puff pastry on the sheet pan, then spread the tomato jam evenly over the surface, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Sprinkle with the crumbled goat cheese, then place the tomato pieces evenly on top. Top with freshly ground black pepper and bake in the 400F oven for 30 minutes, or until the edges of the pastry are golden brown and have puffed. Remove from the oven, drizzle lightly with extra virgin olive oil, season with finishing salt, and sprinkle with whole fresh basil leaves. Serve warm or room temperature.

The tomato jam may be made up to one week in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Share Your Recipes

July 7th, 2009

Many people are shocked that I happily give away recipes. “If I could cook like you, I would never give away my secrets,” I often hear. Well, I must say that I thoroughly disagree with this attitude. Sharing recipes is like storytelling, traveling, and reading a book all in one shot. It is a way to give and receive something special and new.

It has been said that sharing a recipe makes it immortal. So many of us make Grandma’s apple pie, or our mother’s roast chicken. This is what makes a recipe live on, long after the life of the person who first shared it with us. The following quote expresses this sentiment best:

The recipe that is not shared with others will soon be forgotten,
but when it is shared, it will be enjoyed by future generations.

–Unknown

In that spirit, I’d like to share my recipe for sour cream cake, a simple and satisfying base to any variety of luscious summer fruits:

Sour Cream Cake

3 eggs
2 cups sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup sour cream
2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 ½ cups all purpose flour
½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. salt

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease 1 large loaf pan or 4 mini loaf pans. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until thickened and a pale yellow color. Beat in the oil, sour cream and vanilla until smooth. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a small bowl. Add to the egg mixture until blended.

Fill greased loaf pans 2/3 full. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden on top and a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Cool for 5 minutes before removing from pan to cool completely on wire racks.

Serve with fresh berries or stone fruits.

Add berries to the batter for a fruit pound cake. Drizzle the loaves with a powdered sugar glaze made with powdered sugar and just enough lemon juice to make the right consistency.

Wine Cellar Sorbets

June 15th, 2009

winecellarsorbets
Now you can drink your wine and eat it, too! Wine Cellar Sorbets makes a delicious frozen dessert so good, and so authentic in flavor, you could identify all the wines in a blind taste test. The champagne is bubbly on the tongue while the ruby port is fruity and rich. The sake sorbet is crisp, and the riesling is semi-sweet.

I had the pleasure of sampling several varieties (or should I say varietals?) last weekend at The Conran Shop, where my “Notes on Cooking” co-author, Russell, and I were signing books. We immediately made friends with the friendly and fun Wine Cellar Sorbets team. Meeting them was truly a treat!

What could be a better end to a summer sushi meal than a scoop of sake sorbet? Serve the mimosa flavor at your next brunch. Once you try this clever concoction you’ll be hooked.

Visit Wine Cellar Sorbets for a store locator and on-line shipping.